Plants for Garden Wildlife
Vegetation in a garden is very important for wildlife. Birds, insects and mammals (such as hedgehogs, squirrels and bats) need a garden where they have a place to shelter, can safely breed and find adequate suitable food.
With this in mind, CJ Wildlife have put together a range of plants that meet these requirements for a wildlife-friendly garden; and are happy to explain what our passion for plants is all about!
Directly from our own field
The plants in our range are shipped to you directly from our own fields. This logistics process guarantees the quality of the plants which are well cared for by plant experts and prepared for shipment.
The packaging is tailored to the plant species, so that they arrive in the best possible condition. In addition, we give our plants a final watering before they leave in preparation for their journey with the parcel service.
On our way to planet proof
Just like you, we consider nature to be of paramount importance and do everything we can to be so environmentally friendly. Our Green+ bird foods, for example, consists of only organically grown ingredients, but we also do that as much as possible when it comes to our plants. Just because something is green does not mean that it is also best for the environment. Many of our plant products have the "On The Way To PlanetProof" logo. This quality mark shows that these products have been produced sustainably. That is of course good for nature, wildlife and the environment. Plants are not only about natural cultivation and sustainable production through the use of more natural fertilisers and less use of harmful pesticides, but also about recycled and recyclable packaging.
Our range consists of:
- Flowers that attract insects such as butterflies, bumblebees and bees providing sources of nectar and pollen
- Dense shrubs and climbing plants in which insects and wildlife, such as birds and hedgehogs, can shelter and nest
- Fruit and nut bearing trees and shrubs that are attractive to us as well as wildlife
Get started right away with your purchase
Check the content
Unpack your plant from the delivery when it arrives, even if you are not going to plant out right away. Check your delivery against your order, but do let us know if you have any queries.
Preferably into the garden today
For best results, it is best to site your plant immediately. If you are unable to plant out straight into the garden, then here are some tips to take good care of your new plants until you are ready to do so.
Eight valuable storage tips
- Open the plant packaging and put them in a dry, frost-free place.
- Keep potted plants in a cool, light area and give an initial watering. Do not put them in full sun.
- Some (fruit) shrubs, trees and conifers without a straw cap enclosure are packed in a plastic bag. Keep the plastic bag closed around these. Put it all away in a cool, bright place, avoiding too much sunlight.
- Store woody plants with straw cap enclosure (shrubs and conifers) in a cool, light place before planting. Make sure they do not dry out so water them or dip them in a bucket of water.
- Place the roots of roses and ornamental shrubs without a root ball in a ball of ground rye straw to prevent them from drying out.
- The following applies to all plants, shrubs and roses: never plant when it is freezing! Always keep them in a frost-free place.
- If you need to kjeep your new plant purchases outdoors for more than a few days, then provide extra protection for woody crops. The best way to do this is to pit them: dig a ditch and place planks in it at an angle. Use the excavated soil as a support. Pour water over the roots and close the ditch.
- Do you keep your crops in a shed or garage? Then place evergreen shrubs and conifers in a shady spot. Leave the roots packed until actually planted. Plants without a root ball or leaves can be placed on the ground and covered with damp cloths or bags.
In what condition do you receive the plant?
The roots do their job
Most of the plants you receive are in a dormant state. This means that they are at rest, not in bloom and therefore do not look their best. The most important reason to send a plant in a dormant start is that it can tolerate more handling than if in the growth and flowering phases. Plants at rest 'sleep' comfortably through shipment and transport. If necessary, we even extend the rest period by keeping the plants longer at a lower temperature. The plant part above the soil may not initially be the most beautiful sight, but down below the roots do their job to develop a growing and flowering plant in the coming seasons.
In the spring and summer it is possilble that some plants are shipped in bloom. These first flowers may wither during transport, but as soon as it is planted in the ground, the plant will first establish its roots, then start growing flower buds. So you may not get as many flowers in the plant in the first year.
Judging good quality
The quality of the plant depends on the roots. To assess the quality, do the following:
Take the nursery pot in your hand and turn it over. Tap the bottom several times to loosen the root ball.
Gently pull on the pot so that the root ball comes out. If you start planting immediately, you no longer need to put the root ball back in the pot. Check whether the roots are clearly recognisable throughout the root ball and whether they hold the root ball together well. The stronger the roots, the stronger the plant. A plant with a well-rooted root ball is therefore of good quality. There can be quite a difference in the thickness of the roots between plant species: one plant has thick roots while the other has thin stems.
If you cannot get the plant out of the pot properly, cut the pot. To promote regrowth, it is important that the roots are loose. Therefore, squeeze the root ball firmly a few times before planting it. Press down firmly around the plant after planting. Water the plant immediately and keep doing it repeatedly for the first time.
We only supply 100% quality plants from our own fields and offer you 100% growth guarantee on all your plant purchases for 2 months. Since you will receive plants at rest, please remember it will take a few weeks before they wake up.
A pot provides a strong root ball
The better the roots of a plant are developed, the faster the plant will grow, and strong sturdy root balls are created by growing young plants in pots. When you receive your purchase, leave the pot around the plant for a while. Do not remove the pot until just before you plant it. Water your plant regularly to keep it fresh and healthy.
When a pot is not needed
Not all plants need to be grown in a pot. Plants with a rhizome or thick, fleshy roots can go straight into the ground. Spread the roots wide in the planting hole, but be careful not to break them.
When to plant out into the ground
The planting times for a perennial is generally spring and autumn. The warm summer months are not suitable and planting in the freezing winter is absolutely 'forbidden'. Growing plants in pots makes the planting period much longer. However, for best results, it is recommended to plant in early spring or late autumn.
The correct planting distance
What is the correct planting distance between plants? It is difficult to give one answer for this. How fast a plant grows depends on the type of soil in which it is planted, but also on the location and the space that a plant has. Generally, 11 plants are needed per m². The distance between low plants is around 20 and 25 cm. Medium-high plants need a distance of 35 to 40 cm and larger, taller plants need a distance of 50 to 75 cm.
Placing the plants
Always start with plants in the back of the border and work forward from there so that you do not trample on the newly planted crops. Remove the plant carefully from the pot only just before it goes into the ground. Lift the plant by the root ball out of the growing pot. To promote regrowth, it is important that the roots are loose. Therefore, squeeze the root ball firmly a few times. Now you can place the plant in the planting hole you made in the ground. After planting, press the soil around the plant firmly. When all plants are in place, water sufficiently with the watering can or with a garden hose set on a gentle spray as a hard jet closes the ground. Make sure to water the plants daily for the first time.
Enjoy the beautiful flowers
In most perennials, the leaves and flower stems die in the autumn, but they bloom again in the spring. This applies to border plants as well as summer flowering bulbs. As perennials get older, they bloom with more flowers each year. In order to enjoy the floral splendor for as long as possible, it is important to always remove the dead flowers.
Care of your plant
Tall plants in particular need a little extra attention so use some branches or canes between the plants for support and divide the plants if they get too big. You do this by carefully removing the plant from the ground and dividing the root ball into pieces with a sharp spade or knife. After you have removed the dead roots and rotten plant parts, plant the divided sections separately in the soil. You will see the young plants start to grow again quickly. It is recommended to weed regularly, especially in the beginning. As the young plants grow, the weeds will also grow between them. After some time, the weeds hardly have a chance to develop because the plants start to grow towards each other.
A few tips:
Planting in the autumn: the advantages
Planting in the autumn has a number of advantages: The plants grow firmly before winter and you can enjoy plants that bloom early in the spring. In addition, they are more resistant to periods of drought in the following summer. It is important to moisten the root ball well before planting.
Improving soil structure
Each soil type requires its own approach to improve the soil structure. Sandy soil is loose and does not retain water well. By mixing compost through the top soil layer, there is more cohesion in the soil and the water can be retained better. Clay soil is very solid, but compost loosens this soil and makes it lighter in structure. Roots must be able to breathe, so lightness is very important. To ensure that the roots can absorb enough nutrition, extra cow manure can be mixed with the compost.
Raking in the spring
Don't remove all the dead leaves in the autumn. The leaves protect the plants and biodegrade on the spot. The best time to rake away leaves and cut old stems is spring. In the autumn you can take the leaves to the compost heap to spread them as compost between the plants again in the spring, but that is double work.
Check your soil type first
The first thing to consider when buying a plant is the condition of the soil in your garden as this will determine your plant choice. All plants grow and bloom more successfully if the soil has a good structure ensuring it can retain moisture and contains enough air. If the soil in your garden does not have a good structure, you can of course improve it.
Increase water holding capacity
It is quite easy to increase the water holding capacity of your garden. You do this by mixing the top layer of a dense sandy or clay soil with organic material. This compost can absorb nine times its own weight in moisture. For many plants, that little bit of compost provides just enough water during short periods of drought.
The best place to plant
The ivy grows up on its own, but many climbing plants do not have enough adhesive roots to 'climb' up. You can purchase climbing plant supports or a climbing trellis frame for this. The latter is best placed at some distance from the wall or fence so that the climbing plant has room to grow. Where is the best place to plant your climbing plant? This varies per plant. The flowering climbing plants in particular like to be in the sun. However, this does not apply to all climbing plants. The Clematis, for example, is a real forest plant that must be kept out of full sun with its root neck. Tying this plant is often necessary because the tendrils do not attach tightly enough, except on shrubs and trees. Ivy does well in the shade, but an exception to this is the variegated variety- it needs a lot of sun.
When to plant
Planting can be started early in the autumn from September and can continue for a long time in the spring until around May.
How to plant
Provide a spacious planting hole which is particularly important for a foundation. Fill this hole with good soil or compost and then place the plant at an angle to the wall. Give strong climbers such as ivy and wisteria plenty of room in height and width to grow. Place the root ball in a bucket of water overnight before planting. Then plant the ivy in the same way that you would plant a tree. The only difference is that with climbing plants, the mesh must be unbuttoned and left under the roots. Prevent the plant from drying out and water it often and enough. It can be dry for a long time in early autumn and late spring.
Ornamental shrubs and trees
Plant in spring or autumn
The best time to place ornamental shrubs and trees is in the spring and autumn. During these periods the plants are at rest and can be transported very well. Never plant in frosty conditions as the plant cannot obtain water and the cold air can dry out the roots or cause frost damage. Trees or shrubs in containers or pots can also be planted in the summer. Give the plants extra water in the following weeks. They already have leaves and therefore dry out faster.
Planting the ornamental shrub or tree is done as follows: place the shrub or tree in a bucket of water. Then make a spacious planting hole. To give the roots room to find water and nutrients, shovel the soil well. Now you are ready to plant. Place the plant in the planting hole and make sure that the root collar is under the ground. The root collar can be recognised by the small thickening that differs in colour from the rest of the trunk. Fill half of the planting hole with soil and pour in a decent amount of water. Then close the hole further, press the soil firmly and add some water again. Make sure that the tree or shrub also receives enough water after planting.
Pots and straw whistle
Remove the pot from the shrubs that have been grown in a nursery pot. Do this very carefully and try to keep the root ball intact as much as possible. For plants with straw cap, first remove the straw cap so that the bare root is visible. The small hair roots on the root ball are necessary for absorbing water.
A little care for good results
Shrubs and trees are very easy to maintain. In the spring they need some extra organic fertiliser. To prevent root damage, you can work the fertiliser lightly and not too deeply and also leave the manure on the surface. With grafted shrubs and trees such as walnut, it is important to keep the ornamental shape intact, therefore cut away the abnormal growth. With variegated shrubs, we recommend that you cut away the green branches immediately. Weeding is best done by hand or gently with a hoe.
Tips for successful transplanting:
Shrubs are easy to transplant in spring and autumn. If you want to move it to a more suitable place, follow the steps below:
- Tie the branches together for easy access to the roots.
- Make a large circle around the tree with a shovel or spade.
- Make a similar circle wider the width of a spade.
- Remove the soil between the two circles to a depth of at least 50 cm.
- From the slot, pierce the bottom roots. This is quite easy because the side roots have already been pierced.
- Prepare a new planting hole. This hole should be about 12 inches (30 cm) larger than the root ball.
- Loosen the soil well and put the tree in the planting hole.
- Fill the hole with more soil and tamp the ground well.
The best time to plant a deciduous hedge is November. The plants can then take root and take root before winter begins. As long as it does not freeze, you can plant out all winter, until April. The best time to plant evergreen hedges is in October or April.
And then plant
Wet the roots well 24 hours beforehand and put them in a bucket of water or water them excessively. Dig a trench deep and wide enough for the roots to spread out. Sprinkle a mixture of garden peat and / or compost in the trench. If the hedge is planted in heavy clay soil, add sand as well. Carefully press the soil in which the roots are located, so that the hedge remains upright.
It is important that the plants get enough water during and immediately after planting, so ensure the soil is completely saturated, all spaces in between are closed and the water seeps below the roots. In this way the roots come into firm contact with the soil. Also water regularly the first year after planting. In the years that follow, you only need to water during dry periods. Lone plants generally need less water than shrubs that are part of a hedge.
Shrubs that are dry in winter develop brown branches in spring. To prevent this, we recommend the following: cover the ground under the hedge with a layer of organic material such as leaves, trimmed from the hedge itself or wood chips. In this way unnecessary evaporation from the ground is prevented.
Free hedge or shape hedge
There are two ways to prune a hedge: as a free hedge or as a topiary hedge. For example, if you have a large garden and choose to let the hedge plants grow completely into a free hedge, remember that the hedge will eventually become very wide. Even with a free hedge, the shrubs must be pruned slightly every year. All branches that protrude too far and dead and diseased branches must be cut off. A shaped hedge naturally requires more maintenance. This must be pruned several times every growing season. Make sure that you prune the hedge narrower at the top than at the bottom. In this way, sufficient light can penetrate and the lower branches also remain beautifully green. You start by pruning on the sides and then work your way up.
When pruning, stretch a string to indicate the correct height.
Fruit from our own garden
Plant the tree
Do not remove the fruit tree from the packaging until you actually start planting. Because the roots are wrapped in a straw cap, they remain moist for a long time. Follow these steps when you are going to plant your tree or shrub: Place the tree or shrub, before planting, in the water for half a day with straw cap. Dig a large hole and loosen the side walls and the bottom well. Remove the straw cap that surrounds the roots and place the tree in the planting hole. Place a stake next to the tree that you can attach it to later. Fill the planting hole with soil until it is half full. Shake the tree for a moment so that the bud is just above the ground. Fill the hole further and stamp the soil around the tree well. Give the tree or shrub plenty of water.
An easy plant to grow is the strawberry plant. Our summer varieties also thrive and yield good fruit on poorer soil. However, the best soil for growing strawberries is light, humus-rich soil. Strawberries can be grown from the same bed for about three years in a row, after which they must be moved. It is advisable to grow the strawberry bed in a different location and to purchase new (virus-free) plants. To be able to enjoy your fresh strawberries earlier, here are some ideas to accelerate the emergence of the strawberry plants: Use tunnel greenhouses or a flat tray. Use black plant liner so that the soil warms up earlier. Place perforated foil over the plants in March and April for a few weeks. In order to keep your fruits clean and prevent weeds from growing between the plants, then we recommend that you use straw underneath or a plant liner where the plants are planted in the holes.
With apples, cross-pollination is almost always required for fertilisation. This means that there must be at least two or three apple trees in close proximity to each other. Apples need a nutrient-rich soil, so in spring you can mix fertiliser into the soil, around 50 grams per m². In the autumn, farmyard manure or compost is also an option. For apples it is important that the acidity in the soil is not too high. To maintain the acidity level, you can scatter 50 grams of lime per m² over the soil every other year. This is not necessary with clay soil.
To ensure that apples grow on the tree faster, it is good to bend the branches. This prevents the growth of the branches, but ensures faster fruiting. When pruning, it is important to ensure that sufficient light enters the crown. Thinning pruning is a good way to do this and is best done between December to March.
While apples don't like acidic soil, blueberries thrive in acidic soil with a high humus content. So sprinkle some extra garden peat in the planting hole. We also recommend that you sprinkle a good layer of compost over the roots, as they take root very superficially. Blueberries propagate through cross-pollination, so always place two or three shrubs together. Blueberries require little nutrition only about 20 grams of fertiliser per bush in the spring.
The best way to grow blackberries is to hang them on wires. If you grow them on heavy soil, first loosen the soil well. If you grow the blackberries on light soil, add a good amount of compost to the planting hole. Pruning the blackberry bushes is done as follows: Prune away the branches that have attached fruit and which are now hanging near the ground. Also prune any side branches to one or two buds and make sure that the maximum branch length is two meters.
Although the grape is usually grown as a climbing plant, it actually isn't. For that reason, this plant needs some extra support in the form of a rack or a stick. Furthermore, the grape needs a lot of lime, therefore, sprinkle some lime on the soil when planting.
To get a large, juicy bunch of grapes, 'currants' is necessary. This means that the truss with the small fruits is thinned to give the rest of the truss space to grow. December is the best time to prune. Cover the base of the plant in winter with manger or compost and water it a plentifully in March for best results.
Like blackberries, raspberries are best grown on wires and this shrub grows best in light, well-drained soil. Every year new shoots appear on the shrub where the following year fruits will arrive. Except for dead wood, the shrub does not need to be pruned for the first two years. However, in the third year of growth you should prune the shrub until it has five beautiful, well-balanced main branches. Cut the branches that sprout late or do not have a nice shape or direction to the ground and prune off the fruit-bearing branches immediately after harvesting. To give a young shoot space, we recommend that you cut an old branch every year. The best month for pruning is March, but also after the harvest is a suitable period for pruning.
Cherries grow best in nutritious, but not too heavy or wet soil. They hardly need to be pruned and it is necessary to add fertiliser when the trees start bearing fruit. From that moment on you can give the cherry tree 50 grams of fertiliser per m² and possibly 20 grams of lime. However, this is not necessary on clay soil.
Gooseberries are easy to maintain. It is important that they are in moist soil. If you have a dry garden, we recommend that you give them extra water with a watering can or sprinkler.
A pear tree needs the same nutrition and care as an apple tree. The cross-pollination also takes place in the same way, so we recommend that you place two or three pear trees together. A pear tree, and especially the main branch, grows well but if you don't prune it, it will become tall and narrow with the side branches lagging behind. To get a wide crown, you need to bend the branches. This should be done in the first years after planting and then preferably before flowering in spring. The vertical shoots can be pruned in winter.
Plum trees prefer moist soil, free from weeds so it therefore important to control grass and weeds around the base. The most suitable way to do this is by hoeing deeply. The branches of the plum must be bent out, just like the apple and pear tree. A plum tree hardly needs to be pruned; just thin it out by cutting the long branches which is best done in the summer, right after picking.